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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning names. But, situated high among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” says a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their small shop achieving such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.